AFRICAN RICE HEART.

Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

explorations by bike.


We pumped pedals by the orange groves,
traveling on a four-inch shoulder--
hip to hip with a Lexus, a semi, a Toyota.

We glided under a net of oak shadows,
by a pen of tame zebras,
over the Union Pacific tracks.

There were honey bees living in boxes.

I watched my knees rise up and down
over the conveyor-belt-backroads which
brought minute after minute of personal bliss--
as if bliss could come in bags
to be collected and carried on home.

love lost on the tarmac.

"Love is a leap." 

That's what Ansley told me once. And right this very minute she is in Oslo, Norway with a super kind and talented Norwegian photographer eating fancy cheeses and grapes on a blanket by a lake. Kind of makes you want to leap, doesn't it?

"You take risks in every area of your life except this one."

That's what my dad said when as we talked about relationships a while back. He thinks that it's a funny how I would rather hitchhike or trek across all of Africa than be out there in that vulnerable place where love grows. You know that feeling when you leave a cliff and can't control how your body goes anymore? That's the place I'm talking about. That's where love grows.

"It's all about the risk to reward ratio, Emily." 

That's what Fletcher says when he's trying to make decisions. He is much more calculated than me and even by his equations it seems that love is worth the risk; that the deep meaning found in giving and receiving love is greater than the potential pain of love's failure.

When I was in Malawi, the Hayton family told me that there was an AHI position there at Malamulo that needed to be filled. They were trying to convince me to take it and with all the beauty around I was right there, dreaming along with them.

"We just need to find you a man here in Malawi," Sharlene said. "Yeah," I said. "Who do you have in mind?" After a bit of brainstorming, Sharlene said, "Andrew!!! The macadamia nut farmer!" Andrew apparently went to college in South Africa and recently returned to run a large macadamia nut farm near the hospital. "He wants four kids!" she said and then went on about him. About how fun and outdoorsy he is. About how well his business is doing. About his rugged and good-looking features and how much her three little boys love him. I'm telling you...I was completely sold on Andrew and his macadamia nut farm by the end.

"So how am I gonna meet him?" I asked.

Sharlene thought for a second and then said, "Oh rats! He's in South Africa right now and doesn't get back until tomorrow!" I was silently breathing a sigh of relief because I was scheduled to leave in the morning and fly out of Blantyre and back to the states. I get nervous about that kind of thing. About pressurized meetings and such.

Then Shar's eyes lit up and she said, "Wait...he will be arriving on the same plane you are going to leave on!"  I could tell where she was going with this. There is only one flight over the weekend that passes between Blantyre and South Africa. "At the airport, you'll just have to keep an eye out for him as he gets off the plane and then introduce yourself!" Shar pulled up pictures of him on Facebook and we were all laughing at the potential meeting--about the beginning of Andrew's and my future!

I went to sleep in Malawi feeling bright about all of the potential in life, a safety in knowing that jobs in foreign countries exist and that people like Andrew were out there--running their macadamia nut farms, wanting four kids, being handsome and single. Since Andrew and I would probably never meet, Andrew's and my potential for a happy future would remain bright--and yes, unrealized. And yes, always an unknown. But, I thought, at least there was potential. At least it was a possibility. As Eve Ensler writes, "There was a future in waiting." Part of why it sucks to take risks in life is that risking can go two ways and you can't know which it will go until it goes. If you just wait and don't risk, it lets you rest in the safety of the unknown. But the problem is that although you get to keep the potential of the unknown, you don't actually ever step into something real.

At the airport in Blantyre I smiled at the ridiculous thought of "keeping an eye out" for Andrew.

I checked my bags at the gate and navigated through a mass of travelers in the tiny lobby. At the Blantyre Airport you have to check your bags at the desk and then once your plane pulls up you must identify them again to the employees so they will know to put them on your plane. I adjusted my scarf up over my head to keep the sun off my face and then exited the lobby out onto the tarmac where the bags rested in a pile. After identifying my baggage, I looked up to see a steady stream of people filing out of the plane that we were scheduled to board....the plane that had just flown in from South Africa.

A slight breeze was blowing through the tall grasses that lined the back edge of the runway. The plane looked strong and alone out there, shining under the Malawian sun.

I watched the passengers as they descended the steep steps and crossed in front of me into the airport lobby. An ex-politician with an entourage of guards. A woman with two small children. Another woman in a pair of high heels and a black pencil skirt.

Then. There was Andrew.

It was the most surreal thing to watch him walk down the stairs with his red backpack strapped to his back. To see this guy who Shar thought could be a potential match for me--right there! Right in front of me! Close enough to yell to. Close enough to lock eyes with. I just watched him. His brown hair cropped somewhat short. His stride so casual.

I knew in that moment that the opportunity to meet Andrew had presented itself. It required only that I risk a quick run across the tarmac in order to close the last little distance between our paths. Once we talked, I would know something more about him. The unknown would be a little more known. The potential would begin to evolve and become greater or lesser depending on our connection, on his response. He looked like his pictures. He looked fun. He looked kind. He was handsome and looked trustworthy. And just like that, he was gone. Swallowed up by a gate at Blantyre airport.

That really is the end of the story. Disappointing, right? I brought macadamia nuts back to my family and when I told them about Andrew and our almost-meeting they shook their heads and said, "Emily! Are you kidding?!"  My mom was the funniest. She couldn't believe I didn't talk to him. My dad thought I needed to rewrite the ending of the story by writing a letter to Andrew and telling him I saw him in his red backpack at the airport. Other people said they that would come across creepy. Haha.

Part of me is realizing that risk is what deepens every story and it is what shakes off the false comfort and security that lies in the act of waiting. We can wait all our lives and rest in the non-reality of potentials or we can experience some endings as well as some incredible beginnings. Not sure what I should do about Andrew and our future on the macadamia nut farm. But if I ever see him on the tarmac again, I promise you the ending will be much better.

a quiet and secluded place.



We've been pricing the better end of the deal,
saying, "Here's how the numbers tumble,"
and laying our budgets out flat.
We've been leaving a large margin
and only a little bit of slack and I think
what we lack is a long stall in the mountains
with our hearts open and God in them.
What we need is a reminder.
What we need is to make time, take time.

After riding in a wooden boat on for over 6 hours, I arrived at 2 in the morning in Yuka, Zambia, in a room with no electricity where someone had left me a candle burning by a bucket and spigot in the bathroom. After washing up by the low light, I went into a room where others were sleeping and found a small cot under a mosquito net. I was jazzed and running on adrenaline from the journey and when I could't sleep, I grabbed my Bible from the side pocket of my bag. I pulled out a flashlight, too and pulled the wool blanket over my head like a tent so as not to wake the others. In that silent space with the weight of the blanket pressing down, I read this:

"Here's what I want you to do: Find a quiet, secluded place so you won't be tempted to role-play before God. Just be there as simply and honestly as you can manage. The focus will shift from you to God, and you will begin to sense his grace." Matthew 6:6

everything is incredible.

Tomorrow I'm heading to Zambia and Malawi for work to write and take pictures! I feel incredibly grateful for this opportunity and every time I've been tempted to complain this past week that my school work isn't done or that I'm stressed out or that I haven't had time to do everything I needed to do, I just stop and think of what a gift this trip is. I'll be visiting an eye clinic in Zambia and then two hospitals in Malawi. I'm taking a GoPro camera as well as work's nice Canon.

Sometimes its easy to get caught up in "how the story will go" or be anxious about finding "a good story" to tell. But this guy in the video below makes me realize that the story is always there because everything is incredible and that the trick is to see it and to tell it. If only I could take on the genuine voice of this disabled Honduran man who has been building a helicopter....ahhhh this video inspires me.

"The problem is that everything is incredible and people don't accept it."

dying takes a while.

A man was fishing with his lady friend off the pier in the West Seattle Bay. A few minutes after Tara, Sarah and I arrived, a bite took his line and since I'd been snapping pictures of the skyline, the man hollered over to me, "Well, you gonna film this?!"  

After reeling in a spotted rat fish, a small breed of shark often seen by ocean divers in the Pacific Northwest, the man ripped the hook from the fish's mouth and dropped him onto the deck.  The fish lay heaving on his silver side. The guy kept telling Tara to keep her probing fingers away from the venomous spine located on his dorsal fin. "Just wait a minute, he'll turn upright," and sure enough, the fish flexed one fin and rolled onto his belly, his emerald eyes, his prettiest feature, saddled on either side of his head.

The man's girlfriend was standing behind his right arm for safe observation, "He's dyyyyyyin'!" She pitied the fish.  She had a soft heart. "He ain't dyyyyyyyyyy'nnn!" the man replied, his southern drawl hanging onto the "y" for emphasis.  "Breathin'....see?"

He wasn't breathing and I wanted to say it. I wanted to say, "He's actually suffocating! His gills are collapsed on themselves like slabs of turkey or the pages of a book that's been left in the rain and there isn't enough surface area for the gas exchange to take place anymore--he's SUFFOCATING!" I was with the lady on this one. Fishermen think fish are invincible, that they'll live until a deadly knife runs down their belly and a gutting thumb runs up their spine.  That's dying in a fisherman's mind. But instead of saying all that, I just tried to agree in some way, "Yeah....he's not dead, yet. Dying takes a while...."

The man put the fish near the edge of the deck and told Tara, "Just watch this, he'll flip himself right on in--he knows how to get back to the ocean." And pretty soon, with Tara's probing bike tire's help, the fish went free.

in order to really know.


Traveling Home with Sarah

LL, a conversation, San Luis Obispo, the gum wall, Sally-Loos Cafe, Maddy, Marlin, Auntie Evie, 101 coastal view drive, another conversation, a thrift store, two sets of roller blades, a feather necklace, keys locked in car, AAA, some good conversation, a burrito by the sea, sleep in car at rest stop, wake up with cramped neck at rest stop, drive, drive, drive, drive through San Fran at night, find a perched look-out, drive to the redwoods, run through the Redwoods, The Good Body-by Eve Ensler, a conversation, Jonsi, arrive at my brother and sister's house in Portland, play frisbee, drink tea, sleep, sleep, sleep, wake up, a few hours in Powell's Books, a trip to the donut shop, to the coffee shop, to the waterfront. An hour of roller-blading along a thread of Portland bridges. Rain. Rain, rain falling on shoulder blades of the bikers. We walked into a fountain by the river. It's so hard to imagine exactly how something would feel or be and there is the potential to actually know, you know? I'll let you in on the secret.....standing in a fountain makes you hold your breath, throws water up in your face, in your eyes, in fact, you're almost swimming, almost showering, almost treading water, almost surviving a storm. Now we know!

And now we're in Seattle. In WASHINGTON! I can't wait to be home for a while.

Kerry Park. Seattle, WA.

PHOTO:  This morning with KATIE H. at Kerry Park, Seattle WA
It's been raining like a fickle electrical connection here in Seattle--on and off, and it's full on right now. There's a plaque on the wall at Kerry Park that says, "Kerry Park given to the City in 1927 by Mr. and Mrs. Albert Sperry Kerry, Sr., so that all who stop here may enjoy this view."

the wind in Montana.


PHOTOS:  MONTANA WIND PRESS, HUNKERED DOWN.  
My uncle Eric is such a calming, kind guy. He is an anesthesiologist, but also a pilot and so we have been staying with him and Quinn, his fiance, in an apartment which connects to his airplane hanger. On my way to the restroom, I pass his 4-seater Cessna and I feel like I'm at the airport!

Quinn tells me that the wind here in Montana can make her restless because of the way it comes and ambushes the windows.  From my bed here, it sounds a bit like the ocean does, but the ocean is so eternally reliable and maybe because of that, I never stress about what it's doing.  My uncle told me that the plaster coat on the roof of the hanger cracked. I guess the wind pushes that hard here.  Buildings aren't meant to flex so much unless you're in an earthquake zone.  I mean, it's like an old woman with an arthritic back shouldn't do a back bend unless she wants her spine to break and pop out of her stomach!  Yeah, I know!  BAD DEAL!

I want to write more about these two because they're just such wonderful people who live outdoors and so, so intentionally, but my belly is full of polenta, a million fresh herbs, and rooibos tea, and despite the wind of Montana, I feel peace.

the tall, lean European space.

PHOTO:  BACK IN THE REDWOODS.
The camper shower is a tall, lean, European type of space. The back wall meets my body with the chill of a waterslide—a thick plastic cage that sends all the water down, and that’s where I fall when the truck accelerates. Back wall catching body. Body against plastic. 

The shower curtain wraps closely around the front side of the space. It almost feels like those times when my mom would hold a towel around me so I could change decently in public places--there I’d be, elbows trapped by towel, towel splitting open when I bent forward, and towel just so up in my space—making it hard to get the task at hand, done.

I drop my clothes to a square foot piece of carpet which is holding my feet. I step into the little back-wall-front-curtain space, and reach over to turn the sink on. Then I pull the switch to open the shower hose.

To make matters more complicated, let’s remember that the whole shower is on wheels, driving the snake lanes of highway 101. My legs brace themselves like a tripod, except, there are only two of them, and that’s why I lean my back against the back wall. Back wall catching body. Body against plastic.

The water is not warm and I feel like I’m doing work to be in that shower. It’s not pleasant, but it’s clean, and by golly I will be clean. I fly into dancer pose when my dad slams on the breaks. My front arm extends out into the curtain, fully followed by my body which finds itself against another wall, one which is not part of the shower. Regaining my balance, I rinse the shampoo out of my hair, scrap the idea of conditioner (another wash-rinse step? I think not) and flip the water off. My skin is proudly dripping camper water-tank water onto the square foot piece of carpet which is once again holding my feet.

I dry my face with a beach towel that still smells like Bodega Bay ocean salt. Looking into the mirror, my eyes look proud for a second—I catch them looking proud for the way I’ve just managed. Is this all it takes then? Just a task to take on? A challenge or purpose?

I reach out and grab my tooth brush and start scrubbing my teeth—there in the mirror, toothpaste foams around my lips and I stop taking myself so seriously. I’m clean and we’re almost to Seattle.

avenue of the giants.


Yesterday, we biked through the redwood forest--right down the Avenue of the Giants.   A dog came out of these people's shanty living quarters and I had to swing my left leg hard and fast at his head/teeth while hollering, "Go home!  Go home!"  Yikes.

Today is my mom's birthday!  She and my dad are just five days apart--he's a bit older than her.   So today, since it's her birthday, we're going to stop at all the thrift stores and antique shacks we see.

We are heading into OR, the beaches remind me that I've got to live by one someday.   Just a reminder, though.   Life's not there yet...

the crust of the pacific.


This is a route I know fairly well for being me, and for only having lived 25 years.  San Francisco, NorCal Coast, Highway 1, to Highway 101, to the Redwoods and so on up.   My dad’s duelee truck sounds like farm equipment when it revs up hills and the camper’s top-heavy weight rocks us at our base, like a toddler with tippy balance.  Highway 1, in case you’ve never driven it, is a 30 mile per hour paved route and serves as the crust of the Pacific Ocean, keeping you within earshot of the breaking waters and rarely taking you away from the sheer and unforgiving cliffs.  It’s a slow road compared to Interstate 5, which is so straight and can be driven without any special attention, going seventy miles per hour.

But the experience of driving highway one, if I could begin to relate it, comes from a line of living that is carefully tailored for a human ready to watch and ready to stop, to breathe for a second longer than makes good sense.

The houses that hang on the ever-eroding crust, give a real sense that we are temporal, that our earthly existence will pass within one lifetime, and that there is no risk in living in a danger which will never catch us, anyway.

Maybe that was a selfish sentence...definitely bolder than I am.  I believe in preserving the future of our earth for our children, in preventing the onset of problems that slowly destroy.   But I also believe in graduating from fear, from blacks and whites and strictness.  I believe in living on the edge (though I'm often not the first to do it.)  I believe in living in uncertainty--mostly because we must, and also because loving the questions is something that is bringing more and more freedom.

REVOLUTION.



PHOTO:  INN MARIN,  BEN AND ERINNE'S WEDDING.  UNCLE BARRY DANCES HIS SOLO.
We've been dancing at the Inn Marin here in San Francisco for the last few hours--dancing with cousins, mothers, children, and grandpa's--my grandpa, too.  There was one point later in the night where Laura, Fletcher, Nilmini, Shaun and I, our bodies damp with sweat, were singing the Party Rock Anthem to each other, shuffling under the strobe and hopping around like teenage-children, that I thought, "I am so in love with these people."

That's what weddings are about, right?   Love.  Promise.  Committing to another, to each other.  Symbols.  Getting someone's back.  Celebration.  Coming together.  Being more unified, more like a body, more like one.

We pushed my Uncle Barry into the middle of the dance floor to solo, and like a sharp glass of lemon, he drank down the spotlight, in his best suit, with his children watching, like a father, like a son, like a human radical, starting a revolution in the hearts of any timid man, woman or child.   

When we set our pride down, we start revolutions.  Things change.  Things begin to move.  We, as one, begin to actually move.

experiencing from all angles.




PHOTO:  SPRAY FALLS (from all angles),  MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.
Even when the rain falls,
Even when the flood starts rising,
Even when the storm comes,
I am washed by the water.
--Needtobreathe

sleeping in a "Z"

Last night I fell asleep in my car under the lights of the 76 station with my body folded up like a "Z" between the back seat doors.   Light is not always enough to make the night unfriendly--but I read a quote from Galileo on Ansley's Facebook page the other day that said, "I have loved the stars too fondly to be fearful of the night," and I will think of this quote whenever I am afraid.

Waking up, I slowly pulled my hands under my shoulders and slipped up above the window edge to gather my surroundings in the daylight--seeing the place I'd parked and the oddity of the way my car sat in the middle of a big slab of cement alone.  I crawled up and slid my keys into the ignition, turning them once.   The music came on.   

We are, crooked souls trying to stay up straight, Dry eyes in the pouring rain
The shadow proves the sunshine
The shadow proves the sunshine

What a good mental use of darkness--to prove the sunlight.

And at that point, I pulled my dress around me in a way that made me decent and climbed up through the front seats to sit in front of the wheel.   Driving over to the pumps, I filled the car with gas and cleaned the windshield while I waited--scrubbed the spray of bugs off the glass.  Just as I was wondering who filled the window-water bucket each morning, a man from India hauled a bucket and gave me a happy, "Good Morning!"   He filled the window-water bucket until it frothed out onto the pavement and then told me to have a nice journey.   Have a nice journey.  Ok.  I'll do it.  Thank-you.

My dad texted me--said, "Hot breakfast, love the day" and that was a brilliant idea.   I'm at some little country bakery--and the lady suggested hot peach cobbler--done.

At times, I think we're all simply extensions of the person we've been--just growing out of it into a person not so different from the last, but slightly more learned.  But other moments, I believe I feel the grace of God settled over my yesterday until yesterday is scarcely seen.  It feels like a new day, like a gift instead of a well-earned pursuit.

"So if you're serious about living this new resurrection life with Christ, act like it. Pursue the things over which Christ presides. Don't shuffle along, eyes to the ground, absorbed with the things right in front of you. Look up, and be alert to what is going on around Christ—that's where the action is. See things from his perspective.  Your old life is dead. Your new life, which is your real life—even though invisible to spectators—is with Christ in God. He is your life."

African Rice Heart on the Road

This is an interview with Spectrum, and for some time I've wanted to write some thoughts on how this process of a book was, and how the book tour went--so here it is.  Happy Sabbath,  Em

running over clothing.

Yesterday I dragged my roller suitcase down the wooden steps and across the grass of Camp Mivoden.   When I finally getting on the freeway, I put a hat on to keep my hair from out of my eyes, and flipped the sun visor down for a bit of shade.  I90 ran with me, and I can't stop loving the road.

As I drove over Snoqualmie Pass--that special pass, I capped a hill and as I came over, there were clothes strewn across the lanes--all colors of jackets and dresses, dumped and littered there.  I didn't swerve or anything, just drove right over them, feeling like there was no stopping in traffic like that--at speeds like that.  But it felt so weird to run over the clothing--a new little mental pin, knowledge bit, experience.

It's so nice to be in Seattle and today, we're headed to Olympic National Park.

trash, culture, and entitlement.


In the middle of the book tour,
in the middle of southern USA,
in the middle of March,

I literally felt as if my appearance was a burden to the cashier at Conoco.  I remember wanting to make the interaction as short as possible for his sake--so that I could relieve him of having to talk to me, of having to engage with my sleep-deprived eyes, which were half holding onto the mascara from a day and a half ago.  Texas had cleaned out every last polite silence or consideration which I had left to offer Dylan.  I felt like a corpse waiting to arrive at the cemetery:  "Just get me in the ground!"

Arriving in Big Springs, we both agreed that the day was, by default, over.   We decided that this desolate place in Texas would be the only place on the whole three month trip that we'd stay in a hotel.   Calling AAA, I asked them for the number of a hotel with a hot tub and pool.  It was our only requirement.   We'd been driving for two days and had slept in the car.

Getting the address to a La Quinta not far off, we drove there, checked in, and made our way to the room.  While I went to gather a few more things from the car, Dylan went to check out the pool.   Meeting back at the room, Dylan informed me that the pool was closed.  

!!!

He said it was closed for cleaning because trash cans had fallen in during the last gusty wind storm, oh, and the hot tub was closed, too.

I don't believe that evening brought out my best colors.   In fact, with evidence of my true spirit in times of desperation, I felt that there was little left to reveal that could make me seem anymore ungrateful for the actual place of privilege I sit in at any given moment.  But I didn't have the self-preach ability at that point.   No, things just got worse.

I told Dylan, "We have to get a different hotel."

Dylan washed every escalating situation that trip with a quiet voice of sedation--put a stop to most rockets I was about to launch.  We went downstairs to talk to the desk lady.   Dylan started in with that calmness that business majors know will get you places, explaining our situation.  The lady was unhelpful to say the least.  She said we'd, "already dirtied the room by opening it," and that, "they'd have to turn it over," and so she couldn't, "refund the room."

I leaned in with less calm--I mean, I'm not a business major or anything.  I told the lady we needed to talk to her manager.   She said her manager was out.  I asked her if she'd get the manager on the phone.  She said the manager wouldn't want to be bothered.
 
I said, "Miss, you're not doing your job."   Yikers!
She responding with obvious offense, "Actually I AM doing my job."

I continued, "No, your job is serve the customer.  If you can't serve the customer, then you are supposed to pass them to your boss, and if your boss can't help then we get to talk to his boss, and well, that's your job."   With no luck, Dylan asked for a number to call the headquarters.   The lady said she didn't have it, and that's the point when Dylan leaned over and grabbed the La Quinta pen which had the 1800 number on the side.   "Here we go," he said.  "We'll just give them a ring."

After threatening to swim in the trash-contaminated-pool anyway (despite Dylan's warning about getting the rash of my life) and after raging about the fact that there were no pillow cases on my pillows, and the fact that internet wouldn't stream The Bachelor, and that the water tasted like spoiled wretch--I went to sleep bitter.

What I had been entitled to, I had not received.

It is funny to think about the contentment I had in times when I didn't feel entitled to anything in Chad, and contrast it with the dissatisfaction I feel the very moment I start feeling like I deserve something.  


There's a verse in Roman's 12 that says, "Don't become so well-adjusted to your culture that you fit into it without even thinking. Instead, fix your attention on God. You'll be changed from the inside out. Readily recognize what he wants from you, and quickly respond to it. Unlike the culture around you, always dragging you down to its level of immaturity, God brings the best out of you, develops well-formed maturity in you.

wake up in seattle.

Yesterday, at 2:15 a.m., the Amtrak attendant told us that our train from Spokane to Seattle was half an hour late in from (Chicago).  

A mom hauled her half-asleep boy by the hand to the restroom.   A wacky gentleman paced the tiles of the station.  One guy snored in an unhealthy way.  The rest of us were stone-faced, but maybe softer--glazey eyed and exhausted. The lady next to me said, "Everyone here looks mean, but they’re actually just tired,” which I thought was a very positive truth to point out.

In the morning after the 8 hour trip, and a cup of coffee in the diner car, I got off the train at the middle-of-nowhere train station of Tukwilla.  I called Tara.  

"I'm here!"
"Where?"
"Well, here."

Seattle always gives rain.  All the old ladies were mad about it as we walked down the ramp, and this one girl with a sweet mohawk called her taxi.  I dragged my roller suitcase under the train bridge and from its shelter, gave Tara vague descriptions of my surroundings until she found me.  It's so nice to see her!

coming back around.



PHOTO:  CRACK IN MY WINDSHIELD HAS TRAVELED TOO.  HEADED HOME.
It seemed like they'd gone in circles--coming back to the place they'd started.   Someone asked, "Isn't this the same place you started?  Didn't your journey begin here?  Why have you come back to a place you've already been?"

"This is not the same place," she responded, "In fact, I hardly see anything the same."